Surfin

Hawai'i hasn't been all work for me.  There's a killer surf spot close to the house called Honoli'i.  It's a fun wave that can get a little crowded, but I've been going early each morning trying to become part of the morning Kru.  Bunch of great guys and girls out there.  Not too many over aggressive surfers that don't want you there.  I get a little stink eye from time to time, but I've been there enough that they at least recognize me as a 'local.'  It's so nice to be in warm water.  My chest hasn't gotten too tore up from my board.  There's a little rash there from the wax, but nothing too bad.  The body is getting use to not wearing a wetsuit.

It's been fun to actually get better.  I have found a new center and can ride much better than I did in California.  It's also nice not getting crushed just on your way out to the wave.  If you're familiar with Ocean Beach in San Francisco, you know what I'm talking about.  There you may paddle for 45 minutes and not be able to break through the initial white water.  Here, there's a nice channel coming from a river that rushes you right out.  Don't get me wrong, it can get heavy.  There were some nice 8 foot faces breaking on me yesterday morning.  It's different though, warm and clear water makes it a little less intimidating.  There you may run across a 25 foot Great White, here not so bad, only 15 foot Tiger sharks.  Peace of cake!